Cosmetic Compositions Comprising Hydroxyfatty Acids

ABSTRACT

The present invention is concerned with novel cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions. More particularly, the invention is concerned with novel cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions for treating or preventing any symptoms caused by negative developments of the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin, as well as for the promotion of hair growth and protection from hair loss.

The present invention is concerned with novel cosmetic or pharmaceuticalcompositions. More particularly, the invention is concerned with novelcosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions for treating or preventing anysymptoms caused by negative developments of the physiologicalhomeostasis of healthy skin, as well as for the promotion of hair growthand protection from hair loss.

Thus, in one aspect, the present invention is concerned with cosmetic orpharmaceutical compositions comprising a fatty acid containing 6 to 18carbon atoms, which carries one or two hydroxyl, alkoxy, preferablymethoxy or ethoxy, C2-C4-acylprotected amino, preferably C2, or oxogroup, preferably between the positions C6 and C12; or a salt, ester oramide of such acids or a mixture of these acids; and a carrierconventionally used in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions.

The ester or amide are, preferably, an alkyl ester or alkyl amide,wherein the term “alkyl” encompasses straight chain as well as branchedalkyl groups, i.e. that “C₁₋₄-alkyl” encompasses straight chainC₁₋₄-alkyl (methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-butyl) as well as branchedC₃₋₄-alkyl (iso-propyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl).

The salt may by formed by any cosmetically acceptable cation which meansany metal cation as well as any organic cation that is not toxic to theskin and/or does not cause allergic reactions. Examples of such cationsare ammonium salts and alkyl ammonium salts, alkali cations such assodium and potassium ions and alkaline earth metal cations such ascalcium und magnesium ions.

In one embodiment of the present invention the aliphatic fatty acid is asaturated straight-chain fatty acid or ω-branched-chain fatty acid whichpreferably has 6 to 18 carbon atoms. In another embodiment the aliphaticfatty acid is a saturated straight-chain or ω-branched chain fatty acidwhich has 6 to 18 carbon atoms and is substituted, preferably byhydroxy, between the positions C6 and C12. A particularly preferredfatty acid is 9-hydroxy stearic acid.

In a further aspect, the invention is concerned with cosmetic orpharmaceutical compositions comprising a fatty acid or a salt, ester oramide with the definitions and preferences as given above, and aretinoid.

Retinoids for use in the invention are, e.g., retinoic acid or retinoland isomers, e.g. 9-, 11- or 13-cis isomers thereof, and derivativesthereof which comprise retinyl esters such as the acetate,phenylbutyrate, propanoate, laurate, palmitate, oleate, linoleate; orretinyl alkyl carbonate; or ethers such as retinoxytrimethylsilane; or(all trans)-retinal or its acetals; or retinoic acid or amides thereofsuch as methoxy PEG-12 retinamide (“PEG-12”=—(CH₂—CH₂—O—)₁₂).

More specifically, the invention is concerned with cosmetic orpharmaceutical compositions comprising at least one fatty acid or asalt, ester or amide with the definitions and preferences as givenabove, and optionally one retinoid, for the treatment or prevention ofsymptoms caused by negative developments of the physiologicalhomeostasis of healthy skin, as well as for the promotion of hair growthand protection from hair loss.

Treatment or prevention of symptoms caused by negative developments ofthe physiological homeostasis of healthy skin comprises treatment orprevention of wrinkles or dry skin or sensitive skin, thickening of theepidermis, inhibition of senescence of skin cells, prevention ortreatment of photodamage, prevention or treatment of oxidative stressphenomena, prevention or treatment of cellulite, prevention andtreatment of disturbances in ceramide and lipid synthesis, prevention ofexcess sebum production, reduction of activities of matrix metalloproteases or other proteases in the skin, treatment and prevention ofinflammatory skin conditions including acne (=anti-acne), atopic eczema,polymorphic light eruption, psoriasis and vertiligo.

In still another aspect, the invention is concerned with a method oftreatment or prevention of symptoms caused by negative developments ofthe physiological homeostasis of healthy skin as well as treatment orprevention of itchy or irritated skin and of promotion of hair growthand of protection from hair loss which method provides topicallyadministering to a person in need of such treatment or prevention aneffective amount of a fatty acid or a salt, ester or amide with thedefinitions and preferences as given above, optionally and preferably incombination with a retinoid and preferably in the form of a cosmetic orpharmaceutical composition according to the invention.

A preferred embodiment of the present invention is a method of treatingor preventing wrinkles or human dry skin or sensitive skin, of promotinghair growth, of protecting from hair loss and of thickening theepidermis, which method comprises the step of topically administering toa person in need of such treatment or prevention an effective amount ofa fatty acid or a salt, ester or amide with the definitions andpreferences as given above, optionally and preferably in combinationwith a retinoid.

A further object of the present invention is a method for the preventionor treatment of pigmentation disorders and/or for providing an even skintone, which method comprises the step of topically administering to aperson in need of such prevention or treatment an effective amount of acomposition according to the present invention as defined above, whereinthe composition contains a retinoid.

Another object of the present invention is a method for fortifying thepigmentation which method comprises the step of topically administeringto a person in need of such fortification an effective amount of acomposition according to the present invention as defined above andtopically administering a tanning active, wherein the tanning active maybe administered before, after or simultaneously with the administrationof the effective amount of the composition according to the presentinvention, and wherein any retinoid is essentially absent in such acomposition.

The term ‘an effective amount’ refers to an amount necessary to obtain aphysiological effect. The physiological effect may be achieved by oneapplication dose or by repeated applications. The dosage administeredmay, of course, vary depending upon known factors, such as thephysiological characteristics of the particular composition comprisingthe fatty acid or a salt, ester or amide with the definitions andpreferences as given above, optionally in combination with a retinoidand its mode and route of administration; the age, health and weight ofthe recipient; the nature and extent of the symptoms; the kind ofconcurrent treatment; the frequency of treatment; and the effect desiredand can be adjusted by a person skilled in the art.

In another embodiment, the compositions according to the presentinvention can be used for the treatment or prevention of symptoms causedby negative developments of the physiological homeostasis of healthyskin as defined above, as well as for the promotion of hair growth andprotection from hair loss. The compositions according to the presentinvention can further be used for the treatment or prevention of itchyor irritated skin or for fortifying the pigmentation (the latter,however, only, if no retinoid but a tanning active is present.). Ifretinoid is, however, present in the composition of this invention thecomposition can be used for the prevention or treatment of pigmentationdisorders and/or for providing an even skin tone, since the boosting ofretinoids by the fatty acids or a salt, ester or amide thereof asdefined above may lead to a depigmentation.

Preferably the compositions of the present invention are used for thetreatment or prevention of wrinkles or dry skin or sensitive skin, forthe promotion of hair growth, for the protection from hair loss, forthickening the epidermis, (if retinoid is present) for the prevention ortreatment of pigmentation disorders and/or for providing an even skintone, and/or (if retinoid is absent and a tanning active is present) forfortifying the pigmentation. Thus the composition according to thepresent invention, i.e. the fatty acids or a salt, ester or amidethereof with the definitions and preferences as defined above mayfortify the pigmentation by enhancing the effect of a tanning active.

While, typically, the cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions accordingto the present invention contain one of the fatty acids as definedabove, the invention is not limited to that particular aspect and two ormore fatty acids or a salt, ester or amide thereof as defined above maybe present. As stated above, a retinoid may be additionally present,providing an additive or synergistic cosmetic effect, i.e. animprovement or prevention of symptoms caused by negative developments ofthe physiological homeostasis of healthy skin, as well as promotion ofhair growth and protection from hair loss. Again, two or more retinoidsmay be present. If a retinoid is present in the compositions of thepresent invention, the ratio of the fatty acid or a salt, ester or amidewith the definitions and preferences as given above) to the retinoid issuitably from about 1000:1 to 1:1000, more preferably from about 100:1to 1:100 and in particular from about 30:1 to 1:30 by weight. The fattyacids or a salt, ester or amide thereof as defined above show also anadditive or synergistic effect with retinoids which are already presentin the human skin.

In the compositions provided by the present invention, the amount of thefatty acid or a salt, ester or amide with the definitions andpreferences as given above is suitably from about 0.0001 to about 50%,preferably from about 0.001 to about 20% by weight of the totalcomposition. More preferably, the fatty acid as defined above arecontained in the composition in an amount of about 0.01% by weight toabout 1% by weight, most preferably in an amount of about 0.5% byweight. If a retinoid or derivative thereof is present, the amount ofthe latter is suitably from about 0.0001 to about 50% by weight,preferably from about 0.001 to about 20% by weight, most preferably inan amount of about 0.01 to about 1 weight %, in particular in an amountof about 0.1% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition.Preferred according to the invention is a composition comprising thefatty acid or a salt, ester or amide with the definitions andpreferences as given above in an amount of about 0.5% by weight and aretinoid or derivative thereof in an amount of about 0.1% by weight,based on the total amount of the composition.

The term “cosmetic composition” as used herein e.g. refers to topicalcompositions for care of the human skin, see also the heading“Kosmetika” in Römpp Lexikon Chemie, 10th edition 1997, Georg ThiemeVerlag Stuttgart, New York.

Regarding the kind of the topical (cosmetic or pharmaceutical)compositions and the preparation of the topical compositions as well asfor further suitable additives, it can be referred to the pertinentliterature, e.g. to Novak G. A., Die kosmetischen Präparate—Band 2, Diekosmetischen Präparate—Rezeptur, Rohstoffe, wissenschaftliche Grundlagen(Verlag für Chem. Industrie H. Ziolkowski K G, Augsburg).

The amount of the cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according tothe invention, which is to be applied to the skin depends on theconcentration of the active ingredients in the compositions and thedesired cosmetic or pharmaceutical effect. For example, application canbe such that a crème is applied to the skin. A crème is usually appliedin an amount of 2 mg crème/cm² skin. The amount of the composition whichis applied to the skin is, however, not critical, and if with a certainamount of applied composition the desired effect cannot be achieved, ahigher concentration of the active ingredients can be used e.g. byapplying more of the composition or by applying compositions whichcontain more active ingredient.

The cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to the invention ispreferably applied at least once per day, e.g. twice or three times aday. Usually it takes at least two weeks until the desired effect isachieved. However, it can take several weeks or even months until thedesired effect is fully maximized.

The compositions of the present invention contain the fatty acids or asalt, ester or amide thereof with the definitions and preferences asdefined above with cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptableexcipients or diluents. If nothing else is stated, the excipients,additives, diluents, etc. mentioned in the following are suitable forcosmetic compositions.

If nothing else is stated, in this application parts and percentages areper weight and are based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions of the presentinvention are topical compositions in the form of a suspension ordispersion in solvents or fatty substances, or alternatively in the formof an emulsion or micro emulsion (in particular of O/W or W/O type,O/W/O or W/O/W-type), PET-emulsions, multiple emulsions, bickeringemulsions, hydrogels, alcoholic gels, lipogels, one or multiphasesolutions or a vesicular dispersion and other usual compositions, whichcan also be applied by pens, as masks or as sprays. The emulsions canalso contain anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactant(s).

Preferred compositions according to the invention are skin carepreparations, hair-care preparations, decorative preparations, lightprotection preparations and functional preparations.

Examples of skin care preparations are, in particular, body oils, bodylotions, body gels, treatment creams, skin protection ointments, shavingpreparations, such as shaving foams or gels, skin powders such as babypowder, moisturizing gels, moisturizing sprays, revitalizing bodysprays, cellulite gels, anti acne preparations and peeling preparations.

Examples of hair care preparations are, for example, hair-washingpreparations in the form of shampoos, hair conditioners, hair-carepreparations, e.g. treatment preparations, pre-treatment preparations,hair tonics, styling creams, styling gels, pomades, hair rinses,treatment packs, intensive hair treatments, hair-straighteningpreparations, liquid hair-setting preparations, hair foams andhairsprays and lacquers, perming agents, hair gels, hair fixatives andhair dying or bleaching agents.

Examples of decorative preparations are in particular lipstick, eyeshadow, mascaras, dry and moist make-up, rouge, powders, and suntanlotions.

Examples of functional preparations are cosmetic or pharmaceuticalcompositions containing active ingredients such as hormone preparations,vitamin preparations, vegetable extract preparations, anti-ageingpreparations, and antimicrobial (antibacterial or antifungal)preparations without being limited thereto.

Cosmetic compositions in accordance with the invention can be in theform of a liquid, a lotion, a thickened lotion, a gel, a cream, a milk,an ointment, a paste, a powder, a make-up, or a solid tube stick and canbe optionally be packaged as an aerosol and can be provided in the formof a mousse such as a aerosol mousse, a foam or a spray foams, sprays,sticks, a gel, a plaster, a powder, a cleanser, a soap or aerosols orwipes.

The compositions of the invention can also contain usual cosmetic orpharmaceutical adjuvants and additives, such aspreservatives/antioxidants, fatty substances/oils, water, organicsolvents, silicones, thickeners, softeners, emulsifiers, sunscreens,antifoaming agents, moisturizers, fragrances, surfactants, fillers,sequestering agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymersor mixtures thereof, propellants, acidifying or basifying agents, dyes,colorants, pigments or nanopigments, e.g. those suited for providing aphotoprotective effect by physically blocking out ultraviolet radiation,or any other ingredients usually formulated into cosmetics ormedicaments.

An additional amount of antioxidants/preservatives is generallypreferred. Based on the invention all known antioxidants usuallyformulated into cosmetics or medicaments can be used. Especiallypreferred are antioxidants chosen from the group consisting of aminoacids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophane) and theirderivatives, imidazole (e.g. urocanic acid) and derivatives, peptidessuch as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives (e.g.anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene,lycopene) and derivatives, chlorogenic acid and derivatives, lipoic acidand derivatives (e.g. dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose,propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxine, glutathione,cysteine, cystine, cystamine and its glycosyl-, N-acetyl-, methyl-,ethyl-, propyl-, amyl-, butyl- and lauryl-, palmitoyl-; oleyl-,γ-linoleyl-, cholesteryl- and glycerylester) and the salts thereof,dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionicacid and its derivatives (ester, ether, peptides, lipids, nucleotides,nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (such asbuthioninsulfoximine, homocysteinsulfoximine, buthioninsulfone, penta-,hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low compatible doses (e.g. pmolto μmol/kg), additionally (metal)-chelators (such as α-hydroxyfattyacids, palmic-, phytinic acid, lactoferrin), β-hydroxyacids (such ascitric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), huminic acid, gallic acid, gallicextracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and its derivatives,unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (such as γ-linoleic acid,linolic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinoneand ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (such asascorbylpalmitate and ascorbyltetraisopalmitate, Mg-ascorbylphosphate,Na-ascorbylphosphate, Na-ascorbylacetate), tocopherol and derivatives(such as vitamin-E-acetate), mixtures of natural or synthetic vitamin E,vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin-A-palmitate and -acetate) as well asconiferylbenzoat, rutinic acid and derivatives, α-glucosylrutin, ferulicacid, furfurylidenglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene,butylhydroxyanisole, trihydroxybutylrophenone, urea and its derivatives,mannose and derivatives, zinc and derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO₄),selenium and derivatives (e.g. selenomethionine), stilbenes andderivatives (such as stilbenoxide, trans-stilbenoxide) and suitablederivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides,peptides and lipids) of the named active ingredients. One or morepre-servativeslantioxidants may be present in an amount about 0.01weight % to about 10 weight % of the total weight of the composition ofthe present invention. Preferably, one or morepreservatives/antioxidants are present in an amount about 0.1 weight %to about 1 weight %.

Typically topical formulations also contain surface active ingredientslike emulsifiers, solubilizers and the like. An emulsifier enables twoor more immiscible components to be combined homogeneously. Moreover,the emulsifier acts to stabilize the composition. Emulsifiers that maybe used in the present invention in order to form O/W, W/O, O/W/O orW/O/W emulsions/microemulsions include sorbitan oleate, sorbitansesquioleate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate,polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglycerol esters of oleic/isostearicacid, polyglyceryl-6 hexaricinolate, polyglyceryl-4-oleate,polyglyceryl-4 oleate/PEG-8 propylene glycol cocoate, oleamide DEA, TEAmyristate, TEA stearate, magnesium stearate, sodium stearate, potassiumlaurate, potassium ricinoleate, sodium cocoate, sodium tallowate,potassium castorate, sodium oleate, and mixtures thereof. Furthersuitable emulsifiers are phosphate esters and the salts thereof such ascetyl phosphate (Amphisol® A), diethanolamine cetyl phosphate(Amphisol®), potassium cetyl phosphate (Amphisol® K), sodium glyceryloleate phosphate, hydrogenated vegetable glyceride phosphates andmixtures thereof. Furthermore, one or more synthetic polymers may beused as an emulsifier. For example, PVP eicosene copolymer,acrylates/C₁₀₋₃₀ alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates/steareth-20methacrylate copolymer, PEG-22/dodecyl glycol copolymer, PEG-45/dodecylglycol copolymer, and mixtures thereof. The preferred emulsifiers arecetyl phosphate (Amphisol® A), diethanolamine cetyl phosphate(Amphisol®), potassium cetyl phosphate (Amphisol® K), PVP Eicosenecopolymer, acrylates/C₁₀₋₃₀-alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, PEG-20 sorbitanisostearate, sorbitan isostearate, and mixtures thereof. The one or moreemulsifiers are present in a total amount about 0.01 weight % to about20 weight % of the total weight of the composition of the presentinvention. Preferably, about 0.1 weight % to about 10 weight % ofemulsifiers is used.

The lipid phase of the topical compositions can advantageously be chosenfrom:

mineral oils and mineral waxes;

oils such as triglycerides of caprinic acid or caprylic acid and castoroil;

oils or waxes and other natural or synthetic oils, in a preferredembodiment esters of fatty acids with alcohols e.g. isopropanol,propylene glycol, glycerin or esters of fatty alcohols with carboxylicacids or fatty acids;

alkylbenzoates; and/or

silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane, diethylpolysiloxane,diphenylpolysiloxane, cyclomethicones and mixtures thereof.

Exemplary fatty substances which can be incorporated in the oil phase ofthe emulsion, microemulsion, oleo gel, hydrodispersion or lipodispersionof the present invention are advantageously chosen from esters ofsaturated and/or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl carboxylic acidswith 3 to 30 carbon atoms, and saturated and/or unsaturated, linearand/or branched alcohols with 3 to 30 carbon atoms as well as esters ofaromatic carboxylic acids and of saturated and/or unsaturated, linear orbranched alcohols of 3-30 carbon atoms. Such esters can advantageouslybe selected from octylpalmitate, octylcocoate, octylisostearate,octyldodecylmyristate, cetearylisononanoate, isopropylmyristate,isopropylpalmitate, isopropylstearate, isopropyloleate, n-butylstearate,n-hexyllaureate, n-decyloleat, isooctylstearate, isononylstearate,isononylisononanoate, 2-ethyl hexylpalmitate, 2-ethylhexyllaurate,2-hexyldecylstearate, 2-octyldodecylpalmitate, stearylheptanoate,oleyloleate, oleylerucate, erucyloleate, erucylerucate,tridecylstearate, tridecyltrimellitate, as well as synthetic,half-synthetic or natural mixtures of such esters e.g. jojoba oil.

Other fatty components suitable for use in the topical compositions ofthe present invention include polar oils such as lecithines and fattyacid triglycerides, namely triglyceryl esters of saturated and/orunsaturated, straight or branched carboxylic acid with 8 to 24 carbonatoms, preferably of 12 to 18 carbon-atoms whereas the fatty acidtriglycerides are preferably chosen from synthetic, half synthetic ornatural oils (e.g. cocoglyceride, olive oil, sun flower oil, soybeanoil, peanut oil, rape seed oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil,castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil, wheat oil, grape seed oil,macadamia nut oil and others); apolar oils such as linear and/orbranched hydrocarbons and waxes e.g. mineral oils, Vaseline(petrolatum); paraffins, squalane and squalene, polyolefines,hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecanes, favored polyolefines arepolydecenes; dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylylether; linear or cyclicsilicone oils such as preferably cyclomethicones(octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane; cetyldimethicone,hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane,poly(methylphenylsiloxane) and mixtures thereof.

Still other fatty components which can advantageously be incorporated intopical compositions of the present invention are isoeikosane;neopentylglykoldiheptanoate; propyleneglykoldicaprylate/dicaprate;caprylic/capric/diglycerylsuccinate; butyleneglycol caprylatlcaprat;C₁₂₋₁₃-alkyllactate; di-C₁₂₋₁₃ alkyltartrate; triisostearin;dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylat/hexacaprate;propylenglycolmonoisostearate; tricaprylin; dimethylisosorbid.Especially beneficial is the use of mixtures C₁₂₋₁₅-alkylbenzoate and2-ethylhexylisostearate, mixtures C₁₂₋₁₅-alkylbenzoate andisotridecylisononanoate as well as mixtures of C₁₂₋₁₅-alkylbenzoate,2-ethylhexylisostearate and isotridecylisononanoate.

The oily phase of the compositions of the present invention can alsocontain natural vegetable or animal waxes such as bee wax, china wax,bumblebee wax and other waxes of insects as well as shea butter andcocoa butter.

A moisturizing agent may be incorporated into a topical composition ofthe present invention to maintain hydration or rehydrate the skin.Moisturizers that prevent water from evaporating from the skin byproviding a protective coating are called emollients.

Additionally an emollient provides a softening or soothing effect on theskin surface and is generally considered safe for topical use. Preferredemollients include mineral oils, lanolin, petrolatum, capric/caprylictriglyceraldehydes, cholesterol, silicones such as dimethicone,cyclomethicone, almond oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, castor oil, sesameoil, sunflower oil, coconut oil and grape seed oil, cocoa butter, oliveoil aloe extracts, fatty acids such as oleic and stearic, fatty alcoholssuch as cetyl and hexadecyl (ENJAY), diisopropyl adipate,hydroxybenzoate esters, benzoic acid esters of C₉₋₁₅-alcohols, isononyliso-nonanoate, ethers such as polyoxypropylene butyl ethers andpolyoxypropylene cetyl ethers, and C₁₂₋₁₅-alkyl benzoates, and mixturesthereof. The most preferred emollients are hydroxybenzoate esters, aloevera, C₁₂₋₁₅-alkyl benzoates, and mixtures thereof. An emollient ispresent in an amount of about 1 weight % to about 20 weight % of thetotal weight of the composition. The preferred amount of emollient isabout 2 weight % to about 15 weight %, and most preferably about 4weight % to about 10 weight %.

Moisturizers that bind water, thereby retaining it on the skin surfaceare called humectants. Suitable humectants can be incorporated into atopical composition of the present invention such as glycerin,polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, urea, phospholipids, collagen, elastin, ceramides,lecithin sorbitol, PEG-4, and mixtures thereof. Additional suitablemoisturizers are polymeric moisturizers of the family of water solubleand/or swellable/and/or with water gelating polysaccharides such ashyaluronic acid, chitosan and/or a fucose rich polysaccharide which ise.g. available as Fucogel®1000 (CAS-Nr. 178463-23-5) by SOLABIA S. Oneor more humectants are optionally present at about 0.5 weight % to about8 weight % in a composition of the present invention, preferably about 1weight % to about 5 weight %.

The aqueous phase of the preferred topical compositions of the presentinvention can contain the usual cosmetic or pharmaceutical additivessuch as alcohols, especially lower alcohols, preferably ethanol and/orisopropanol, low diols or polyols and their ethers, preferablypropyleneglycol, glycerin, ethyleneglycol, ethyleneglycol monoethyl- ormonobutylether, propyleneglycol monomethyl- or -monoethyl- or-monobutylether, diethyleneglycol monomethyl- or monoethylether andanalogue products, polymers, foam stabilisators; electrolytes andespecially one or more thickeners.

Thickeners that may be used in formulations of the present invention toassist in making the consistency of a product suitable include carbomer,siliciumdioxide, magnesium and/or aluminium silicates, beeswax, stearicacid, stearyl alcohol polysaccharides and their derivatives such asxanthan gum, hydroxypropyl cellulose, polyacrylamides, acrylatecrosspolymers preferably a carbomer, such as Carbopole® of type 980,981, 1382, 2984, 5984 alone or mixtures thereof.

Suitable neutralizing agents which may be included in the composition ofthe present invention to neutralize components such as e.g. anemulsifier or a foam builder/stabilizer include but are not limited toalkali hydroxides such as a sodium and potassium hydroxide; organicbases such as diethanolamine (DEA), triethanolamine (TEA), aminomethylpropanol, and mixtures thereof; amino acids such as arginine and lysineand any combination of any foregoing. The neutralizing agent can bepresent in an amount of about 0.01 weight % to about 8 weight % in thecomposition of the present invention, preferably, 1 weight % to about 5weight %.

The addition of electrolytes into the composition of the presentinvention may be necessary to change the behavior of a hydrophobicemulsifier. Thus, the emulsions/microemulsions of this invention maycontain preferably electrolytes of one or several salts including anionssuch as chloride, sulfates, carbonate, borate and aluminate, withoutbeing limited thereto. Other suitable electrolytes can be on the basisof organic anions such as, but not limited to, lactate, acetate,benzoate, propionate, tartrate and citrate. As cations preferablyammonium, alkylammonium, alkali- or alkaline earth metals, magnesium-,iron- or zinc-ions are selected. Especially preferred salts arepotassium and sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate, zinc sulfate andmixtures thereof. Electrolytes can be present in an amount of about 0.01weight % to about 8 weight % in the composition of the presentinvention.

According to the invention for preparing the compositions of theinvention the active ingredients can be used as such or in anencapsulated form, for example in a liposomal form. Liposomes arepreferably formed with lecithins with or without addition of sterols orphytosterols. The encapsulation of the active ingredients can be aloneor together with other active ingredients. It is possible to encapsulateonly the fatty acid or a salt, ester or amide thereof with thepreferences and definitions as defined above or only the retinoid, butit is also possible to encapsulate both ingredients either together orin separate capsules.

Other embodiments include solid or semisolid capsules aiming to protectthe retinoid from degradation or for controlled delivery. The capsulemay contain the retinoid alone or together with the fatty acid or asalt, ester or amide thereof with the preferences and definitions asdefined above. Suitable encapsulation technologies are for exampledescribed in WO 0180823, WO 9903450, WO 9317784 or in Fragrance Journal(2001), 29(2), 83-90.

The composition of the present invention can also contain one or moreadditional pharmaceutically or cosmetically active ingredients, inparticular for preventing or reducing acne, wrinkles, lines, atrophy,inflammation, as well as topical anesthetics, artificial tanning agentsand accelerators, antimicrobial agents, antifungal agents and sunscreening additives without being limited thereto.

Examples of such ingredients are peptides (e.g., Matrixyl™[pentapeptidederivative]), oligopeptides, wax-based synthetic peptides (e.g., octylpalmitate and tribehenin and sorbitan isostearate andpalmitoyl-oligopeptide), glycerol, urea, guanidine (e.g. aminoguanidine); vitamins and derivatives thereof such as vitamin C (ascorbicacid), vitamin A (e.g., retinoid derivatives such as retinyl palmitateor retinyl propionate), vitamin E (e.g., tocopherol acetate), vitamin B₃(e.g. niacinamide) and vitamin B₅ (e.g. panthenol), vitamin B₆ andvitamin B₁₂, biotin, folic acid; anti-acne actives or medicaments (e.g.resorcinol, salicylic acid, and the like); antioxidants (e.g.phytosterols, lipoic acid); flavonoids (e.g. isoflavones,phytoestrogens); skin soothing and healing agents such as aloe veraextract, allantoin and the like; agents suitable for aesthetic purposessuch as essential oils, fragrances, skin sensates, opacifiers, aromaticcompounds (e.g., clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, andeugenol), desquamatory actives, hydroxy acids such as AHA acids, radicalscavengers, farnesol, antifungal actives in particular bisabolol,alkyldiols such as 1,2-pentanediol, hexanediol or 1,2-octanediol,phytol, polyols such as phytanetriol, ceramides and pseudoceramides,amino acids, protein hydrolysates, polyunsaturated fatty acids, plantextracts like kinetin, DNA or RNA and their fragmentation products,carbohydrates, conjugated fatty acids, carnitin, carnosine, biochinonen,phytofluen, phytoen, and their corresponding derivatives.

Additionally the cosmetic and pharmaceutical topical composition of thepresent invention may contain UV-screening agents (UV-filter). Theadditional UV-screening agents are advantageously selected from IR,UV-A, UV-B, UV-C and/or broadband filters. Examples of UV-B or broadspectrum screening agents, i.e. substances having absorption maximumsbetween about 290 nm and 340 nm may be organic or inorganic compounds.Organic UV-B or broadband screening agents are e.g. acrylates such as2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene, PARSOL® 340),ethyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate and the like; camphor derivativessuch as 4-methyl benzylidene camphor (PARSOL® 5000), 3-benzylidenecamphor, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor, sulfo benzylidene camphor, sulphomethyl benzylidenecamphor, therephthalidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and the like;Cinnamate derivatives such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (PARSOL® MCX),ethoxyethyl methoxycinnamate, diethanolamine methoxycinnamate (PARSOL®Hydro), isoamyl methoxycinnamate and the like as well as cinnamic acidderivatives bond to siloxanes; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, such asp-aminobenzoic acid, 2-ethylhexyl p-dimethylaminobenzoate,N-oxypropylenated ethyl p-aminobenzoate, glyceryl p-aminobenzoate;benzophenones such as benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4,2,2′,4,4′-tetrahydroxy-benzophenone,2,2′-dihydroxy-4,4′-dimethoxybenzophenone and the like; esters ofbenzalmalonic acid such as di-(2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate;esters of 2-(4-ethoxy-anilinomethylene)propandioic acid such as2-(4-ethoxy anilinomethylene) propandioic acid diethyl ester asdescribed in the European Patent Publication EP 0895 776; organosiloxanecompounds containing benzmalonate groups as described in the EuropeanPatent Publications EP 0358584 B1, EP 0538431 B1 and EP 0709080 A1 suchas PARSOL® SLX; drometrizole trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL); imidazolederivatives such as e.g. 2-phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid and itssalts (PARSOL®HS). Salts of 2-phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid aree.g. alkali salts such as sodium- or potassium salts, ammonium salts,morpholine salts, salts of primary, sec. and tert. amines likemonoethanolamine salts, diethanolamine salts and the like; salicylatederivatives such as isopropylbenzyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, butylsalicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate (PARSOL® EHS, Neo Heliopan OS),isooctyl salicylate or homomethyl salicylate (homosalate, PARSOL® HMS,Neo Heliopan HMS) and the like; triazine derivatives such as ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul T-150), diethylhexyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb HEB)and the like. Encapsulated UV-filters such as encapsulated ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate (Eusolex UV-pearls) or microcapsules loaded withUV-filters as e.g. disclosed in EP 1471995 and the like;

Examples of broad spectrum or UV A screening agents i.e. substanceshaving absorption maximums between about 320 nm and 400 nm may beorganic or inorganic compounds. Organic broad spectrum or UV A screeningagents include e.g. dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as4-tert.-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoyl-methane (PARSOL® 1789),dimethoxydibenzoylmethane, isopropyldibenzoylmethane and the like;benzotriazole derivatives such as2,2′-methylene-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3,-tetramethylbutyl)-phenol(Tinosorb M) and the like; bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine (Tinosorb S) and the like;phenylene-1,4-bis-benzimidazolsulfonic acids or salts such as2,2-(1,4-phenylene)bis-(1H-benzimidazol-4,6-disulfonic acid)(Neoheliopan AP); amino substituted hydroxybenzophenones such as2-(4-Diethylamino-2-hydroxy-benzoyl)-benzoic acid hexylester (Uvinul Aplus) as described in the European Patent Publication EP 1046391; IonicUV-A filters as described in the International Patent PublicationWO2005080341 A1; As dibenzoylmethane derivatives have limitedphotostability it may be desirable to photostabilize these UV-Ascreening agents. Thus, the term “conventional UV-A screening agent”also refers to dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as e.g. PARSOL® 1789stabilized by, e.g. 3,3-Diphenylacrylate derivatives as described in theEuropean Patent Publications EP 0 514 491 B1 and EP 0 780 119 A1;Benzylidene camphor derivatives as described in the U.S. Pat. No.5,605,680; Organosiloxanes containing benzmalonate groups as describedin the European Patent Publications EP 0358584 B1, EP 0538431 B1 and EP0709080 A1.

A good overview of UV-A- and UV-B screening agents which can be added tothe compositions of the present invention can also be found in DE-A 10327 432. All UV-screening agents disclosed in this document are alsouseful as components for the compositions of the present invention andare included herein by reference. Additionally the composition of thepresent invention may contain UV-A and UV-B filters. Further examples ofUV-filters or screening agents are disclosed, e.g., in WO 04/000256, seeespecially pages 10-12 which are included herein by reference.

A safe and effective amount of the UV-screening agent is used, typicallyfrom about 1 wt.-% to about 20 wt.-%, more typically from about 2 wt.-%to about 10 wt.-% based on the total weight of the composition.

Other suitable UV-screening agents which may be incorporated into thecosmetic or pharmaceutical topical compositions of the present inventionare inorganic pigments such as microparticulated metal oxides (e.g.PARSOL® TX). Examples of such compounds include e.g. titanium dioxidehaving an average primary particle size of from about 15 nm to about 100nm, zinc oxide having an average primary particle size of from about 15nm to about 150 nm, zirconium oxide having an average primary particlesize of from about 15 nm to about 150 nm, iron oxide having an averageprimary particle size of from about 15 nm to about 500 nm, and mixturesthereof. The metal oxide particles may also be coated by metal oxidessuch as e.g. aluminum or zirconium oxides or by organic coatings such ase.g. polyols, methicone, aluminum stearate, alkyl silane. Such coatingsare well known in the art. When used herein, the inorganic sunscreensare present in the amount of from about 0.1 wt.-% to about 20 wt.-%,preferably from about 0.5 wt.-% to about 10 wt.-%, more preferably fromabout 1 wt.-% to about 5 wt.-% based on the total weight of thecomposition.

The fatty acids or a salt, ester or amide thereof with the preferencesand definitions as given above are known or belong to a known class ofcompounds and as such can be prepared by known methods or in analogythereto.

In another embodiment the invention relates to the use of a fatty acidor a salt, ester or amide with the definitions and preferences as givenabove for boosting the cosmetic effects of retinoids and/or tanningactives.

The efficacy of the compositions of the invention comprising fatty acidor a salt, ester or amide with the definitions and preferences as givenabove, optionally in combination with a retinoid as well as the conceptof a synergistic effect between a retinoid and a fatty acid as definedabove may be demonstrated in an in vitro test system using human primarykeratinocytes as outlined below. The marker may be the enzymeTransglutaminase 1, which is a well-known and common differentiationmarker in human epidermal cells. Epidermal keratinocytes are isolatedfrom human foreskin biopsies and cultured in keratinocyte serum freemedium (KSFM, GIBCO) in a growth chamber with 37° C. and 5% CO₂. At thesecond passage, cells are transferred to 6 well plates and allowed toreach approximately 50% surface confluence.

The active ingredient(s) are solubilized in ethanol orethanol/tetrahydrofuran. Retinoic acid solutions are handled underyellow light conditions only. When keratinocyte cultures reaches theappropriate confluence, the KSFM medium is supplemented with 1.3 mMcalcium, in order to induce keratinocyte differentiation and thus alsoinduce TG1 expression, and treatment is started by adding either aretinoid such as retinoic acid or a fatty acid or a salt, ester or amidewith the definitions and preferences as given above or both substancesin combination. For every sample, medium and/or treatment substances arechanged twice daily. Seventy-two hours after the beginning of thetreatment, cells are harvested and the RNA extracted. RNA is reversetranscribed into cDNA. Relative quantification of TG1 mRNA transcriptlevels in control versus treatment cultures are determined usingmultiplexed real time PCR analysis.

The ability of the cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions of thepresent invention to reduce skin wrinkles may be assessed byprofilometric methods described in “Skin topography measurement byinterference fringe projection: a technical validation”. (Lagarde J M;Rouvrais C; Black D; Diridollou S; Gall Y, Skin research and technology:official journal of International Society for Bioengineering and theSkin (ISBS) [and] International Society for Digital Imaging of Skin(ISDIS) [and] International Society for Skin Imaging (ISSI) (2001 May),7(2), 112-21 or “Direct and non-direct measurement techniques foranalysis of skin surface topography”. Fischer T W; Wigger-Alberti W;Elsner P., Skin pharmacology and applied skin physiology (1999January-April), 12(1-2), 1-11.

The ability of the compounds and compositions of the present inventionto stimulate or protect hair growth may be determined with a mouse modeldescribed for example in WO 9817273. Instead of using Cyclophosphamide(Neostar, Pharmacia) to damage hair follicle Mitomycin, or Methotrexatecan be used. It is also possible to detect hair growth acceleration withnewborn mice. They have a synchronized hair cycle and approximatelyafter 3 weeks all hair follicles go into the telogen phase. Then theanimals are treated and it is evaluated how fast and to what extend thehair is growing Similar tests using in vitro or in vivo setups can alsobe found in J. Invest. Dermato. symposium proceedings 3rd Int. Meetingof Hair Research Societies, 8/1, p. 39-45 (2003).

The following examples exemplify the invention, but they should not beconstrued as limiting the invention.

EXAMPLE 1

An anti-aging formulation containing the ingredients indicated below canbe prepared in a manner known per se.

Example formulation number 1 Ingredients % (w/w) Glyceryl Myristate 4.00Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 Steareth-2 2.00 Steareth-21 2.00 Isopropyl Myristate5.00 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.50 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 4.00 EthylhexylSalicylate 2.00 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00 Almond Oil 2.00 BHT0.05 Phenoxyethanol &Methylparaben & 0.80 Ethylparaben &Propylparaben &Butylparaben &Isopropylparaben Disodium EDTA 0.10 D-Panthenol 0.30Propylene Glycol 4.00 Polyacrylamide &C13-14 Isoparaffin &Laureth-7 0.509-hydroxy stearic acid 0.50 Retinol 15D (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride &0.50 Retinol) Water Ad 100 Triethanolamine q.s.

EXAMPLE 2

An anti-aging formulations containing the ingredients indicated belowcan be prepared in a manner known per se.

Example formulation number 2 Ingredients % (w/w) Glyceryl Myristate 4.00Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 Steareth-2 2.00 Steareth-21 2.00 Isopropyl Myristate5.00 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.50 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 4.00 EthylhexylSalicylate 2.00 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00 Almond Oil 2.00 BHT0.05 Phenoxyethanol &Methylparaben & 0.80 Ethylparaben &Propylparaben &Butylparaben &Isopropylparaben Disodium EDTA 0.10 D-Panthenol 0.30Propylene Glycol 4.00 Polyacrylamide &C13-14 Isoparaffin &Laureth-7 0.50Water Ad 100 9-hydroxy-stearic acid 0.50 Retinol Acetate 2.8 MI 0.10Triethanolamine q.s.

EXAMPLE 3

A facial treatment formulation containing the ingredients indicatedbelow can be prepared in a manner known per se

Formulation No. 3 Ingredients % (w/w) Glyceryl Myristate 5.00 CetylAlcohol 2.00 Cetyl Phosphate 2.00 Isopropyl Myristate 10.00  TocopherylAcetate 0.30 Almond Oil 2.00 BHT 0.05 Phenoxyethanol &Methylparaben &0.60 Ethylparaben &Propylparaben & Butylparaben &IsopropylparabenTromethamine 0.90 Water Ad. 100 D-Panthenol 0.20 Disodium EDTA 0.10Propylene Glycol 4.00 Polyacrylamide &C13-14 Isoparaffin &Laureth-7 2.009-hydroxy stearic acid 0.50 Retinol 15D (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride &0.50 Retinol) Triethanolamine q.s.

EXAMPLE 4

A facial treatment formulation containing the ingredients indicatedbelow can be prepared in a manner known per se

Formulation No. 4 Ingredients % (w/w) Glyceryl Myristate 5.00 CetylAlcohol 2.00 Cetyl Phosphate 2.00 Isopropyl Myristate 10.00  TocopherylAcetate 0.30 Almond Oil 2.00 BHT 0.05 Phenoxyethanol &Methylparaben &0.60 Ethylparaben &Propylparaben & Butylparaben &IsopropylparabenTromethamine 0.90 Water Ad. 100 D-Panthenol 0.20 Disodium EDTA 0.10Propylene Glycol 4.00 Polyacrylamide &C13-14 Isoparaffin &Laureth-7 2.009-hydroxy stearic acid 0.50 Retinol Acetate 2.8 MI 0.10 Triethanolamineq.s.

EXAMPLE 5

Hair loss sera containing the ingredients indicated below can beprepared in a manner known per se

Formulation No 5 Ingredients % (w/w) Water Ad. 100 Ethanol 8.00Isopropanol 4.00 Propylene Glycol 5.00 D-Panthenol 0.20 PEG-12Dimethicone 0.20 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 4.00 Phytantriol 0.05Vitamin E Acetate 0.10 9-hydroxy stearic acid 0.50 Retinol 15D(Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & 0.50 Retinol) NaOH 10% q.s.

EXAMPLE 6

Hair loss sera containing the ingredients indicated below can beprepared in a manner known per se

Formulation No 6 Ingredients % (w/w) Water Ad. 100 Ethanol 8.00Isopropanol 4.00 Propylene Glycol 5.00 D-Panthenol 0.20 PEG-12Dimethicone 0.20 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 4.00 Phytantriol 0.05Vitamin E Acetate 0.10 9-hydroxyy stearic acid 0.50 Retinol Acetate 2.8MI 0.10 NaOH 10% q.s.

EXAMPLE 7

A skin fortifier lotion containing the ingredients indicated below canbe prepared in a manner known per se

Formulation No. 7 Ingredients % (w/w) Water Ad. 100 D-Panthenol 0.05Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 0.20 Propylene Glycol 5.00 Acrylates/C10-30Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.50 Sodium Hydroxide 30% 0.40 Disodium EDTA0.10 Squalane 2.00 Phenoxyethanol &Methylparaben & 0.80 Ethylparaben&Propylparaben & Butylparaben &Isopropylparaben Coco-Caprylate/Caprate4.00 BHT 0.05 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.10 Cyclomethicone 3.00 Glycerin 3.009-hydroxy stearic acid 0.50 Retinol 15D (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride &0.50 Retinol) Sodium Hydroxide 10% q.s.

EXAMPLE 8

A skin fortifier lotion containing the ingredients indicated below canbe prepared in a manner known per se

Formulation No. 8 Ingredients % (w/w) Water Ad. 100 D-Panthenol 0.05Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 0.20 Propylene Glycol 5.00 Acrylates/C10-30Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.50 Sodium Hydroxide 30% 0.40 Disodium EDTA0.10 Squalane 2.00 Phenoxyethanol &Methylparaben & 0.80 Ethylparaben&Propylparaben & Butylparaben &Isopropylparaben Coco-Caprylate/Caprate4.00 BHT 0.05 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.10 Cyclomethicone 3.00 Glycerin 3.009-hydroxy stearic acid 0.50 Retinol Acetate 2.8 MI 0.10 Sodium Hydroxide10% q.s.

EXAMPLE 9

A formulation to treat age spots containing the ingredients indicatedbelow can be prepared in a manner known per se

Formulation No. 9 Ingredients % (w/w) Water Ad. 100 Polyquaternium-100.10 D-Panthenol 0.50 Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 1.00 Niacinamid 0.50Propylene Glycol 4.00 Glycerin 3.00 PEG-12 Dimethicone 0.20 DisodiumEDTA 0.10 Polysorbate 20 5.00 Phenoxyethanol &Methylparaben & 0.80Ethylparaben &Propylparaben & Butylparaben &Isopropylparaben 9-hydroxystearic acid 0.50 Retinol 15D (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & 0.50Retinol) Sodium Hydroxide 10% q.s.

EXAMPLE 10

A formulation to treat age spots containing the ingredients indicatedbelow can be prepared in a manner known per se

Formulation No. 10 Ingredients % (w/w) Water Ad. 100. Polyquaternium-100.10 D-Panthenol 0.50 Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 1.00 Niacinamid 0.50Propylene Glycol 4.00 Glycerin 3.00 PEG-12 Dimethicone 0.20 DisodiumEDTA 0.10 Polysorbate 20 5.00 Phenoxyethanol &Methylparaben & 0.80Ethylparaben &Propylparaben & Butylparaben &Isopropylparaben 9-hydroxystearic acid 0.50 Retinol Acetate 2.8 MI 0.10 Sodium Hydroxide 10% q.s.

EXAMPLE 11

Anti-cellulite formulations containing the ingredients indicated belowcan be prepared in a manner known per se

Formulation No. 11 Ingredients % (w/w) Water Ad. 100 Caffeine 1.00D-Panthenol 0.50 Glycerin 4.00 Butylene Glycol 2.00 Acrylates/C10-30Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.20 Disodium EDETA 0.10 Arachidyl Alcohol&Behenyl Alcohol &Arachidyl 5.00 Glucoside Squalane 2.00 Mineral Oil4.00 Phenoxyethanol &Methylparaben & 0.80 Ethylparaben &Propylparaben &Butylparaben &Isopropylparaben Isononyl Isononanoate 4.00 BHT 0.05 CetylAlcohol 2.00 Dimethicone 0.50 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.10 9-hydroxy stearicacid 0.50 Retinol 15D (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & 0.50 Retinol)Triethanolamine q.s.

EXAMPLE 12

An anti-cellulite formulation containing the ingredients indicated belowcan be prepared in a manner known per se

Formulation No. 12 Ingredients % (w/w) Water Ad. 100 Caffeine 1.00D-Panthenol 0.50 Glycerin 4.00 Butylene Glycol 2.00 Acrylates/C10-30Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.20 Disodium EDETA 0.10 Arachidyl Alcohol&Behenyl Alcohol &Arachidyl 5.00 Glucoside Squalane 2.00 Mineral Oil4.00 Phenoxyethanol &Methylparaben & 0.80 Ethylparaben &Propylparaben &Butylparaben &Isopropylparaben Isononyl Isononanoate 4.00 BHT 0.05 CetylAlcohol 2.00 Dimethicone 0.50 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.10 9-hydroxy stearicacid 0.50 Retinol Acetate 2.8 MI 0.10 Triethanolamine q.s.

EXAMPLE 13

A skin repair formulation containing the ingredients indicated below canbe prepared in a manner known per se

Formulation No. 13 Ingredients % (w/w) Polyglyceryl-2Dipolyhydroxystearate 4.00 Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate 2.00 Beeswax2.00 Zinc Stearate 2.00 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3.00 CetearylIsononanoate 8.00 Dicaprylyl Ether 5.00 BHT 0.05 Phenoxyethanol&Methylparaben & 0.60 Ethylparaben &Propylparaben & Butylparaben&Isopropylparaben Water Ad. 100 D-Panthenol 0.20 Disodium EDTA 0.10Propylene Glycol 4.00 9-hydroxy stearic acid 0.55 Retinol 15D(Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & 0.50 Retinol)

EXAMPLE 14

A skin repair formulation containing the ingredients indicated below canbe prepared in a manner known per se

Formulation No. 14 Ingredients % (w/w) Polyglyceryl-2Dipolyhydroxystearate 4.00 Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate 2.00 Beeswax2.00 Zinc Stearate 2.00 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3.00 CetearylIsononanoate 8.00 Dicaprylyl Ether 5.00 BHT 0.05 Phenoxyethanol&Methylparaben & 0.60 Ethylparaben &Propylparaben & Butylparaben&Isopropylparaben Water Ad. 100 D-Panthenol 0.20 Disodium EDTA 0.10Propylene Glycol 4.00 9-hydroxy stearic acid 0.50 Retinol Acetate 2.8 MI0.10

1. A cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition comprising a fatty acidcontaining 6 to 18 carbon atoms, which carries one or two hydroxy,alkoxy, preferably methoxy or ethoxy, C2-C4-acylprotected amino,preferably C2, or oxo group, or a salt, ester or amide of such acids ora mixture of these acids; and a carrier conventionally used in cosmeticor pharmaceutical compositions.
 2. The composition as in claim 1,wherein the aliphatic fatty acid is a saturated straight-chain fattyacid or ω-branched-chain fatty acid.
 3. The composition as in claim 2,wherein the saturated straight-chain or ω-branched chain fatty acid issubstituted between the positions 6 and
 12. 4. The composition as inclaim 3, wherein the saturated straight-chain or ω-branched fatty acidis substituted by hydroxy.
 5. The composition as in claim 4, wherein thefatty acid is 9-hydroxy stearic acid.
 6. The composition as in claim 1,comprising additionally a retinoid.
 7. The composition as in claim 1,the retinoid is retinoic acid or a derivative thereof.
 8. Thecomposition as in claim 1, wherein the retinoid is retinyl acetate,phenylbutyrate, propionate, octanoate, laurate, palmitate, oleate,linoleate; retinyl alkyl carbonate; retinoxytrimethylsilane; (alltrans)-retinal or its acetals; or methoxy PEG-12 retinamide.
 9. Thecomposition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the fatty acidis from about 0.0001 to about 50% by weight of the total composition.10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of thefatty acid is from about 0.001 to about 20% by weight of the totalcomposition.
 11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein theamount of the compound of the fatty acid is from about 0.01 to about 1%by weight of the total composition.
 12. The composition according toclaim 6, wherein the amount of the retinoid or derivative thereof isfrom about 0.001 to about 50% by weight of the total composition. 13.The composition according to claim 6, wherein the amount of the retinoidor derivative thereof is from about 0.001 to about 20% by weight of thetotal composition.
 14. The composition according to claim 6, wherein theamount of the retinoid or derivative thereof is from about 0.01 to about1% by weight of the total composition.
 15. The composition according toclaim 6, wherein the ratio of the fatty acid to the retinoid orderivative thereof is from about 1000:1 to about 1:1000 by weight. 16.The composition according to claim 6, wherein the ratio of the fattyacid to the retinoid or derivative thereof is from about 100:1 to about1:100 by weight.
 17. The composition according to claim 6, wherein theratio of the fatty acid to the retinoid or derivative thereof is fromabout 30:1 to about 1:30 by weight.
 18. A composition as in claim 1,which is for prevention or treatment of symptoms caused by negativedevelopments of the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin, promotionof hair growth, protection from hair loss, prevention and treatment ofitchy or irritated skin.
 19. A composition as in claim 1, which is forthe prevention or treatment of pigmentation disorders and/or forproviding an even skin tone.
 20. A composition as in claim 1, which isfor fortifying the pigmentation by enhancing the effect of a tanningactive.
 21. A composition as in claim 1, which is for the treatment orprevention of wrinkles or dry skin or sensitive skin, for the promotionof hair growth, for the protection from hair loss, and for thickeningthe epidermis.
 22. A method of treatment or prevention of symptomscaused by negative developments of the physiological homeostasis ofhealthy skin as well as treatment or prevention of itchy or irritatedskin and of promotion of hair growth and of protection from hair loss,which method comprises the step of topically administering to a personin need of such treatment or prevention an effective amount of a fattyacid or a salt, ester or amide, optionally in combination with aretinoid.